High(er) Security

Sorry!

sfi72 — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 18:34:58 +0000

Figures, i say I’ll post every week then i go on “vacation”(long story) and i end up not having internet for 12 days:/. While i was gone I managed to get my 826c open … http://www.sfi72.com/826c_open.jpg

Also I got a bunch of tamper evident seal samples:
http://www.sfi72.com/seals_sample1.jpg
http://www.sfi72.com/seals_sample2.jpg
http://www.sfi72.com/seals_sample3.jpg

Been playing around with the ones in the 3rd photo a lot, they all seem fairly easy to shim open, will be doing some work with better things to use as shims instead of aluminum can material.

Concept Plus Cylinder

sfi72 — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 21:47:53 +0000

I got the lock off of Ebay, made in Brazil. It is pretty cool, has hardened pins in the front of the plug, and the first key pin is made of steel to make drilling harder. The sidebar is pretty much ornamental though, when picking the lock generally the back of my hook hits some of the sidebar pins, and in the 30 seconds it takes to set the top pins the back of my hook manages to set the sidebar pins. I suspect with some high quality machining, and a decent keyway this could actually be a pretty tough lock.
More Photos of Lock

Quick Update

sfi72 — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 21:00:12 +0000

Just a quick note, I am vowing to try to post at least once a week – that does mean that all my posts probably wont be breakdowns and some will be just a few pictures of a lock or some other random thing, but oh well. Also, I am currently working on a breakdown that I think many people wil be very interested to see.

TuBAR Breakdown

sfi72 — Sat, 23 Jan 2010 14:35:47 +0000

The TuBAR is manufactured by Chicago Lock, a company who is known for several other designs, including the infamous Duo. This specific cylinder is designed for vending machines, and in my opinion is much better than the standard tubular locks seen on a lot of machines. The face of the lock shows a keyway and the 8 pins, the key can only enter the keyway in one direction. The key has 8 different cuts that vary in depth, each cut depresses its pin to its own depth. The pins in this lock on not split, the only thing keeping the cylinder from rotating is the sidebar. Each pin has several false gates, and one true gate that the sidebar “crescent” can fall into. The pins are held in place by very strong springs, which make manipulating the lock extremely difficult, as the pins have a lot of pressure on them, so they don’t stay set. The face of the lock is actually a separate part from the rest of the pin chambers, it is made of a harder metal than the rest of the brass body. When the lock is opened, the key is retained by a small lip inside of the lock housing, which also has a groove cut into it to hold the sidebar. The sidebar comes in two parts, there is the crescent, which interacts with the gates on the pins, and then there is the actual locking bar which keeps the lock from rotating until the crescents have fallen into place.

Mul-T Lock Classic Breakdown

sfi72 — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 01:22:13 +0000

Mul-T Locks are produced in Israel, and are considered high security. The classic is not as secure as the later versions, though without the specialised tool or a lot of picking experience it is still difficult to open. The lock uses a “pin in pin” dimple system, that operates much like a regular dimple lock, however inside of each of the 5 pin stacks there is a seperate pin stack. Both of these must be raised to the proper level for the lock to open. As you can see, the key has cuts to bring the outer pin stacks to the correct level, as well as a small bump in the middle of the cut that raises the inner pin stack. Each pin stack is complete, with its own spring, driver, and key pin. The spring and driver pin for the inner stack is held within the outer driver pin, and the inner key pin is held inside of the outer keypin. When the correct key is inserted, the inner pins are at the same level as the outer pins, and the plug can rotate, with the wrong key all 10 pins are not aligned and the lock stays closed. Conventional picking is made more difficult because the outer stacks have to be picked before the inner stacks, and it is easy to unset an outer pin while trying to set its inner pin. A Chinese company called H&M designed and sells a tool to make picking these locks much easier, It uses a special tip to pick the pins, as well as guides and precise measurements to ensure that the tip is properly alligned over the pin stack. The classic is also vulnerable to bumping attacks, it is one of the harder locks to bump, but still possible. If you are looking for more information on other Mul-T locks, check out datagrams paper at http://lockpickingforensics.com/articles.php .

ASSA Twin 6000 Breakdown

sfi72 — Sat, 11 Jul 2009 01:10:08 +0000

The Twin 6000 locks, like many high security locks, uses 2 separate shear lines. One “standard” shear line, and a sidebar. The standard shear line is fairly normal, 6 pin stacks all have to raised to the proper height to allow rotation of the plug. The twin however has a small variation, while most companies use security pins to make the picking process more difficult, ASSA uses a combination of security pins and something that has become known as “counter-milling“. The counter-milling makes picking this lock extremely hard, even without the sidebar as a second obstacle. The small groove that is cut into the plug catches the small lip on the security pins, and prevents further vertical movement. The only way around them once they are caught is to release tension and try again, very light tension must be used to get around the counter-milling. The third chamber from the front is the only chamber that doesn’t have this counter-milling, so generally while picking it is a good idea to try and set that pin last, as you don’t need to worry about the counter milling catching. The sidebar in this lock is very interesting because all the pins are the same. The actual sidebar is what holds the sidebar “code”, meaning to change the sidebar code you need to replace the sidebar, not the pins. The sidebars are generally assigned to different regions, meaning that if you buy a lock from a locksmith, all the other locks in that region will have the same sidebar code. The pins in the sidebar have 4 false gates in them, and one true gate, which is always in the middle of the pin. When they are raised to their proper heights by the bitting on the side of the key, the sidebar can retract, and providing the “regular” bitting is correct, the lock with open, else the lock will not. Since the key for the lock is very wide, the keyway is also quite large making fitting tools into the lock quite easy, however it is still a very difficult lock to pick open. Soon I will be attempting to bump open the lock, as well has trying a sidebar bypass method sometime next week. The bypass involves cutting the top bitting of and using just the bottom part to set the sidebar code, and then picking it like a regular pin-tumbler lock. I will be taking video of both methods, and posting them here in the near future.

EVVA 3KS Breakdown

sfi72 — Thu, 28 May 2009 02:54:35 +0000

The EVVA 3KS is a high security lock, it uses a simple mechanism but has very high pick resistance. The lock uses a slider system, using 12 sliders, 6 on each side. The key is reversible, and has 3 curves on each side as well as a ‘profile‘ on the top and bottom. 2 of these curves are identical and the third is different, this is because on one side of the lock the sliders have 2 ‘posts’ sticking out of them, and the other sides sliders have 1 ‘post’ on it. On the sliders with the 2 posts, the posts are shorter than the other sliders, this way the single post sliders wont go into the double post sliders curve. The plug looks very unique, it has 12 slots for the sliders as well as slots for the sidebars. The way this lock operates is quite simple, the key is inserted and the posts on the sliders follow the curves on the key. The back of each slider has 2 small notches in it that the sidebar can fall into, once the slider is properly positioned. When the correct key is inserted, all the notches line up and the sidebars fall into them and the lock opens. You may notice that a couple of the sliders stick out of the plug a little, the housing is milled so that the sliders can stick out of the plug a little, and the lock will still be able to function properly. When an incorrect key is inserted, the notches don’t line up and the sidebar can not fall down, and thus the lock does not open. The profile markings on the top of the keys interact with a passive bar on the top of the lock. When the correct key is used, the profile bar falls into the markings on the key, and the lock will not be impeded by it. However, if you grind down the marking on the top of the key, then the profile bar is not a problem because there is nothing there to get in the way of the bar. When dissassembling the lock it is best to insert the key and then slowly pull it out, DO NOT force the cylinder out because you will ruin the milling in the housing as well as possibly break a slider. The key image with the colored curves was taken by n2oah, I tried for quite some time to make a similar one that looked decent, but I just couldn’t.

Abloy Profile Breakdown

sfi72 — Wed, 13 May 2009 23:06:43 +0000

If you are unfamiliar with the workings of an Abloy lock, allow me to briefly explain it to you. The lock uses a key that looks similar to this, depending on the profile. It also uses disks, the deeper the cut on they key, the less the disk rotates. The disks have small slots on them, as well as false grooves to make picking more difficult, these slots when improperly aligned hold a small locking bar up in a groove in the lock housing, and when they are properly aligned the bar falls into the slots, and the cylinder can rotate. The last disk in the pack is what actually turns the lock, it turns a full 90 degrees when the key is inserted, because of this, it is usually used to apply tension when picking the lock. This Abloy Profile cam cylinder contains 11 disks, and 11 spacers and uses the older type of locking bar(the newer ones are shaped in an L to prevent pulling attacks). It has several “anti-pick” disks, that have a hemisphere cut out of them, to make it harder to manipulate the disk with some type of tool. It also has an odd profile that looks a lot like a D, but has a small protrusion in the upper right hand corner. Note: If you own a lock like this, and would like to disassemble it all you have to do is remove a small clip at the rear of the lock.

First

sfi72 — Mon, 11 May 2009 21:10:17 +0000

FIRST!